Barack Obama44th President of the United States · Lawyer, author
Recommended
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
William Finnegan · 2015 · 416 pages
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About the book
A vivid and poetic memoir by William Finnegan about his passion for surfing, which began at age eight in Hawaii and took him for decades to the world's best waves. Amid adventures in California, Indonesia, and Africa, Finnegan weaves an intimate reflection on obsession, freedom, and the pursuit of authentic experiences in an ever-changing world.
With the precision of a great journalist and the sensitivity of a poet, the book intertwines stories of friends, romances, and encounters with untamed nature, turning surfing into a metaphor for life—its periods of calm and its irresistible storms.
Book details
| Author | William Finnegan |
|---|---|
| Original title | Barbarian Days |
| Year of publication | 2015 |
| Pages | 416 |
Recommended by 2 people
Paul GrahamProgrammer, writer and investor · Y Combinator
”It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after.”
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